Koblenz

Travel times from Heidelberg:
Train – 1 hour, 45 mins.
Car – 1 hour, 40 mins.

Between the picturesque landscape of the Rhine and Mosel and surrounded by four low mountain ranges, is this more than 2000-year-old town known as the “Gateway to the Romantic Rhine,” the ideal starting point into the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Koblenz’s abundance of cultural monuments and historical buildings, the cozy little lanes and alleyways, and the relaxed and happy atmosphere of its squares and river promenades make Koblenz a charming town where its guests feel right at home. And it’s a perfect base for exploration of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers that border the city.

Start by exploring the narrow alleys and vibrant plazas of the Altstadt (Old Town), situated in the corner of town bordered by the Mosel to the north and Rhine to the east. A scenic walk that gives a sense of the breadth of this charming quarter is along the Mosel and Rhine promenades. Stroll across the Balduin Bridge, first built across the Mosel starting in 1342. The view back to the Altstadt offers a unique view with the turrets of the Old Castle and the two pointed steeples of St. Florin’s Church.

The two rivers play a major role in the German mythos. The Rhine symbolizes strength and pride, while the Mosel is more nurturing. Just a short stroll upstream along the Rhine promenade, sculpted figures of “Father Rhine and Mother Mosel” lie caressing and affectionate on a bed of grapes. Behind them in stately counterpoint stands the sprawling neo-classical Elector’s Palace, built in the late 1700s (closed to the public).

Make your way to the Deutsches Eck—or German Corner—where the Rhine and Mosel meet. It’s here that a giant copper statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I on horseback was erected in 1897, close to the spot where the Order of German Knights had its headquarters as early as 1216. The statue was destroyed by bombs in 1944. From 1953, the bare pedestal was known as the “Memorial to German Unity.” After reunification, a copy of the statue was replaced in 1993. Today, flags of all German states wave proudly over the two rivers.

Standing at the tip of the Corner, you can watch the sparkling waters of the Mosel swirl into the  powerful Rhine. Across the Rhine stands the mighty Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, looming 388 feet above the river and reminding visitors of Koblenz’s symbolic strength and historic significance. Today, the Fortress houses a memorial to the German army, a youth hostel, the Regional Museum and a restaurant with excellent regional food.

Built on the occasion of the German Wine Exhibition in 1925, the Wine Village is situated on the Rhine banks (in the Empress-Augusta-Gardens). It has been a destination for connoisseurs of good wine and regional specialties for nearly 75 years. The complex includes a genuine vineyard and half-timbered houses from some of the most famous German wine-growing areas. Sit inside for a relaxing view out onto the river, or enjoy the romantic ambiance of sharing a glass of wine on the outdoor trellised courtyard.

There are myriad other attractions to enjoy in Koblenz aside from rivers and wine, though. The art museums alone could keep some guests captivated for a week. The Mother Beethoven House displays the world's largest private Beethoven exhibition. It was in the former home that the composer's mother, Maria Magdelena, was born in 1746. It also now houses documents and letters of cultural figures of the period.

A building rich with history, St. Castor's Basilica was at one time the favorite church of the Carolingian emperors. In this Romanesque building (consecrated in 836), the Verdun compact on the division of the first German Empire was prepared in 843. The church’s fountain reminds us of Napoleon’s rise and fall, and its cryptic inscription is one of history’s great curiosities.

Much of the city was demolished during World War II and was rebuilt with care,  and the Deutsche Kaiser Building stands as a monument to the pre-war history of this city. An early 16th century “residential tower” with battlements, it was the only building to survive the war in its area of the Altstadt.

For a lovely day excursion into the romantic Rhine valley, take a castle boat tour along the river, for example on the “Goethe,” an historical paddle steamer. Enjoy a glass – or share a bottle – of the sweet regional Riesling while cruising past the unparalleled number of castles on Koblenz’s neighboring stretches of river. There’s Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, Stolzenfels Castle and the remarkably well-preserved Marksburg Castle in Braubach. Take a look at the Cat and Mouse Castles before you reach the undisputed highlight of any tour on the Middle Rhine - the Lorelei Rock. The legend lives on, high up above the Rhine on a mighty cliff top. But there are still more sights to be seen: Schönburg Castle, Pfalz Castle and the romantic wine village of Bacharach with Stahleck Castle, before you can head to the famous Drosselgasse in Rüdesheim for a tasty glass of wine.

This is just a sampling of sights and cities in the Historic Highlights of Germany. Find out more at www.historicgermany.com. For planning assistance, contact your travel professional.

Parts of this text originally appeared in Gemütlichkeit, the Travel Letter for Germany, Austria and Switzerland, www.gemut.com.