Travel times from Koblenz to Wiesbaden:
Train – 1 hour, 15 mins.
Car – 1 hour
From Wiesbaden to Mainz:
Train or car: 15 mins.
Continue on toward Wiesbaden, traveling up the Rhine and through the charming Rheingau, one of the most distinguished wine regions of the world. Heading from east to west, the fairly flat, dimpled landscape evolves into progressively steep slopes. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Early on, its medieval ecclesiastical and aristocratic wine-growers were associated with the noble Riesling grape and, in the 18th century, were credited for recognizing the value of harvesting the crop at various stages of ripeness — from which the Prädikate, or special attributes that denote wines of superior quality, evolved. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim’s wines contributed to their popularity in England.
The world-renowned winemaking research and teaching institutes in Geisenheim have contributed significantly to the extraordinarily high level of technical competence in the German wine industry today. Two grape varieties predominate: the Riesling and the Spätburgunder. The former yields elegant wines with a refined and sometimes spicy fragrance; a fruity, pronounced acidity; and a rich flavor. The Spätburgunder wines are velvety and medium- to full-bodied, with a bouquet and taste often compared with blackberries.
Upstream along the Rhine, Germany’s largest wine region, Rheinhessen, lies in a valley of gently rolling hills and atop steep vineyard sites bordered on the west by the Nahe River and on the north and east by the Rhine. This area between the wine-growing communities of Worms, Alzey, Mainz and Bingen is second in production only to that of the Pfalz. Rheinhessen wines are often characterized as being soft, fragrant, medium-bodied and mild in acidity — pleasant, easy-to-drink wines. There are also wines of great class and elegance, with a depth and complexity second to none.
Varied soils and the favorable climate make it possible to grow many grape varieties, old and new. In fact, many of Germany's aromatic, early-ripening new crossings were bred in Rheinhessen by Professor Georg Scheu, after whom the Scheurebe grape is named (pronounced "shoy"). The Portugieser grape is the most important red variety, and the area around Ingelheim is known for its noble fullbodied Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) wine.
The region boasts the world's largest acreage planted with the ancient variety Silvaner and is the birthplace of Liebfrauenmilch, the soft, mellow white wine originally made from grapes grown in vineyards surrounding the Liebfrauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, in Worms.
Once you’ve been sated with the glorious products of the Rheingau and Rheinhessen regions, continue your tour with a relaxing stay in the historic spa-retreat town of Wiesbaden. The town received its descriptive name, literally “bathing in the fields,” from the Franconians in 829. Long before this group, though, the thermal waters were discovered by the Romans. Nearly 2,000 years ago, Roman soldiers began to bathe in the thermal water that bubbled up through the ground. They found these steaming pools had healing effects on them, and the ancient attraction still remains. Wiesbaden’s wealthy spa, resort and casino owners can thank those stinky Roman soldiers and their inadvertent discovery while washing up in the fields for their continued popularity and profitability today.
It began to develop as a resort town in the early nineteenth century, and the European aristocracy came in droves. The presence, prestige and influence of the cultural elite helped develop an extensive calendar of cultural events (many surviving to this day) and the magnificent structures built to house them. Casinos became popular in Wiesbaden to entertain the royalty, nobility and intellectual elite between dips in the baths and it quickly became one of the leading spa destinations in Europe.
The Old Town, once encircled by a city wall, lends itself to strolls through its narrow, twisting alleys lined with houses dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Perhaps the most impressive area is the district around the “new” Kurhaus, the massive and magnificent Wilhelminian structure that opened in 1907. The neoclassical structure is awe-inspiring with its massive dome and rich adornments, also housing the ornate Spielbank. Try your luck at the famed casino, where roulette, blackjack and poker are the primary games of choice and visitors can tour or even take lessons. The adjacent Kurhaus Colonnade features a less formal gambling setting with 130 slot machines.
And, of course, you can’t leave Wiesbaden without experiencing the thermal baths as the Romans did. The Kaiser-Friedrich-Therme, erected in 1913, re-opened to the public in 1999 after extensive restorations. This historic thermal bath is heated by the Adlerquelle, a hot spring with a temperature of 66°C. It offers an Irish-Roman Bath, a fascinating contemporary sauna landscape, and a range of therapies using natural methods of treatment.
Finally, wrap up your tour of the region with a visit to Wiesbaden’s next-door neighbor, Mainz. This regal city dates back to Roman times and is closely associated with the reigns of its Prince Electors and the invention of modern printing by one of its native sons.
The Rhine waterway bustles with shipping and the vital nerve of the metropolis of Rhine- Hesse. You can sense the relaxed character of the city during a stroll along the embankment promenade as the people of Mainz saunter along here, filling the benches and green spaces, or sunbathing on the Rhine beaches.
The city is self-confident and proud of its rich culture as one of Germany’s oldest cities. You can experience four thousand years of writing from all over the world at the Gutenberg Museum, where the “Man of the Millennium’s” workshop has been reconstructed. With a large number of printing implements, old presses and typesetting machines, the history of letterpress printing comes to life. The main focus of the permanent exhibition is a collection of important printed works from the 15th century to the present. The highlights are two copies of the world-famous 42-line Gutenberg Bible.
Mainz’s Marktplatz (Market Place) is a hub of city life. It is bordered by market houses that were reconstructed after WWII and by the Cathedral complex. The Cathedral is still almost completely enclosed by surrounding buildings that grew up over the centuries, creating a red-tinted sandstone "mountain" of a cathedral. Many of the out-buildings were constructed in the Baroque period and survived the War nearly unscathed.
The Prince-Elector Palace was built from 1729-1740 for Franz Ludwig von Pfalz-Neuburg, Prince Elector and Archbishop of Mainz, in a style heavily influenced by French Baroque architecture. Franz Ludwig never had the pleasure of living in the palace, though, as he died during its construction. The site he chose for the palace was in close vicinity to his residence, the Electoral Palace. This means you won’t have far to walk from the Prince-Elector Palace another of Mainz’s main attractions.
The Electoral Palace’s east wing is one of the last examples of German Renaissance architecture. It is a regal building of red sandstone with turrets at each corner and beautiful detailing around the windows. It now houses the renowned Romano-Germanic Central Museum, an interesting showcase of Roman, Medieval, and earlier artifacts.
Mainz’s most popular area for a stroll is Augustiner Street, the city’s main business thoroughfare until the 17th century. Surrounded by boutiques, cafes, pubs, and residential buildings, the magnificent façade of the towering Augustiner Church stands out. The 18th- century church survived WWII undamaged, unlike many of the city’s other churches. Venture inside to explore the impressive gilded interior in its original state, including ceiling frescoes depicting the life of St. Augustine and the history of the order, which has had its home on Augustiner Street since the 13th Century.
Parts of this text originally appeared in Gemütlichkeit, the Travel Letter for Germany, Austria and Switzerland, www.gemut.com. Descriptions of Germany’s wine regions courtesy of the German Wine Institute.
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