Freiburg and the Baden region

Travel times from Würzburg:
Train – 3 hours, 30 mins.
Car – 2 hours, 45 mins.

Continue your trip in sunny Freiburg, today a cheerful “little big city” with southern flair and a charming mix of tradition and progress. It’s a German city with an almost Mediterranean climate and certainly the attending ambiance and joie de vivre. France, after all, is just 25 kilometers (15 miles) away. It is also the capital of the Black Forest and in the heart of the Baden wine-producing region.

Baden is the southernmost of Germany's wine regions. It is primarily a long, slim strip of vineyards nestled between the hills of the Black Forest and the Rhine River, extending some 400 km/240 miles from north to south.

Comprised of nine districts, Baden has many soil types and grape varieties. Nearly half of the vineyards are planted with Burgunder (Pinot) varieties: Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), yielding velvety to fiery red wine and refreshing Weissherbst (rosé), ranging in style from dry to slightly sweet; Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), a dry, food-compatible wine, or marketed under the synonym Ruländer to denote a richer, fuller-bodied (and sweeter) style; and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), neutral enough to accompany many foods. Spicy Gewürztraminer and the noble Riesling are specialties of the Ortenau district near Baden-Baden, where they are known as Clevner and Klingelberger, respectively. Light, mild Gutedel (synonymous with the Chasselas of France and Fendant of Switzerland) is a specialty of the Markgräflerland district between Freiburg and the Swiss border.

For a novel ground-level view of this striking countryside, consider a two-hour journey aboard a small flat-boat in the Taubergiessen Nature Preserve, a remote region often referred to as “Germany’s Jungle.” During the ride, enjoy a bottle of the local wine—parties of just two are welcome, so the romance can be as pleasing as the scenery.

Freiburg sits right in the middle of this region that has been a center of culture for centuries. As the gateway to the Black Forest, its peaks, valleys, lakes, churches and monasteries are all within easy reach of the city. The site of this cosmopolitan university town is unmatched: right at the foot of the Black Forest and in the middle of the “three-country corner” where Germany, France and Switzerland meet. With the Vosges and the Alps nearby, a climate reminiscent of Lugano and a renowned thermal mineral bath and spa resort, its location is a natural attraction.

In Freiburg, you encounter historic sights at every corner. The Cathedral Square is surrounded by impressive buildings, the tallest of which is the steep-roofed historical Kaufhaus (Old Merchants’ House) with its colorfully adorned bartizans. Sights worth visiting include the Old and New Town Halls, the Haus zum Walfisch (House of the Whale) with its superb late Gothic portal, the Basler Hof (Basel Court) and the two medieval city gates (Martinstor and Schwabentor) still standing today.

Picturesquely encircling the magnificent Gothic Cathedral, the medieval Old Quarter features architectural treasures including a colorful marketplace, twisting, narrow lanes, and miniature streams flowing through the streets and alleyways. The cathedral’s 381-foot tower ranks among the masterworks of Gothic architecture, distinguishing Freiburg’s incomparable silhouette.

If you attempt to climb the Cathedral tower, you’ll be rewarded at the pinnacle of your climb with a breathtaking view. And even at such lofty heights, the enchanting ambiance of this old university town is palpable. The old city center’s numerous historical monuments, museums, theaters, cozy restaurants and quaint bars all make this city so popular among students and visitors alike.

Parts of this text originally appeared in Gemütlichkeit, the Travel Letter for Germany, Austria and Switzerland, www.gemut.com. Descriptions of Germany’s wine regions courtesy of the German Wine Institute.