Freiburg

Start your trip in sunny Freiburg, today a cheerful “little big city” with southern flair and a charming mix of tradition and progress. It’s a German city with an almost Mediterranean climate and certainly the attending ambiance and joie de vivre. France, after all, is just 25 kilometers (15 miles) away. The Austrians also left their cultural fingerprint here thanks to the city’s 400 years as part of the Habsburg Empire.

Freiburg lies at the heart of a region that has been a center of culture for centuries. As the gateway to the Black Forest, its peaks, valleys, lakes, churches and monasteries are all within easy reach of the city. The site of this cosmopolitan university town is unmatched: right at the foot of the Black Forest and in the middle of the “three-country corner” where Germany, France and Switzerland meet. With the Vosges and the Alps nearby, a climate reminiscent of Lugano and a renowned thermal mineral bath and spa resort, its location is a natural attraction.

In Freiburg, you encounter historic sights at every corner. The Cathedral Square is surrounded by impressive buildings, the tallest of which is the steep-roofed historical Kaufhaus (Old Merchants’ House) with its colorfully adorned bartizans. Sights worth visiting include the Old and New Town Halls, the Haus zum Walfisch (House of the Whale) with its superb late Gothic portal, the Basler Hof (Basel Court) and the two medieval city gates (Martinstor and Schwabentor) still standing today.

Picturesquely encircling the magnificent Gothic Cathedral, the medieval Old Quarter features architectural treasures including a colorful marketplace, twisting, narrow lanes, and miniature streams flowing through the streets and alleyways. The cathedral’s 381-foot tower ranks among the masterworks of Gothic architecture, distinguishing Freiburg’s incomparable silhouette.

If you attempt to climb the Cathedral tower, you’ll be rewarded at the pinnacle of your climb with a breathtaking view. And even at such lofty heights, the enchanting ambiance of this old university town is palpable. The old city center’s numerous historical monuments, museums, theaters, cozy restaurants and quaint bars all make this city so popular among students and visitors alike.

Visitors to Freiburg will quickly note a unique city feature, the so-called Bächle—or little streams—built nearly 600 years ago as a water supply and to fight fires. The water flows down to the Rhine, providing a way for tired backpackers to cool their feet and a race course for kids with rubber ducks. These babbling little streams offer a charming and often whimsical air to the Old Town.

A popular day trip within the city limits is the Schauinsland, Freiburg’s 4,213-foot “hometown” mountain. The scenery viewed from the cable car running to the summit spans far out over the Rhine plain, past vineyard hills toward the gray-silhouetted backdrop of the French Vosges mountain range. From the summit, the view extends deep into the Black Forest and south to the Alps. Tiny villages, with their red roofs and narrow steeples, and ivy-draped castle ruins perfect this idealistically quaint setting.
 
For a novel ground-level view of the countryside, consider a two-hour journey aboard a small flat-boat in the Taubergiessen Nature Preserve, a remote region often referred to as “Germany’s Jungle.” During the ride, enjoy a bottle of local wine—parties of just two are welcome, so the romance can be as pleasing as the scenery.

Get to know the history of everyday life in the Black Forest from the 16th through the 20th centuries by visiting the Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum (Black Forest Open Air Museum), the Vogtsbauernhof. As you walk through the Open Air Museum you will come into close contact with 400 years of Black Forest history. As you set foot in the museum’s numerous buildings, you will find yourself standing in the midst of daily life as it was for their former inhabitants.