The Minster—the city cathedral—further reveals the townspeople’s pride. For more than a century, its upkeep has been supported purely by donations. Scaffolding surrounds it as it has for years and will, perhaps, for eternity, thanks to the fragility of sandstone and extensive filigree. When one section is repaired, another awaits. As a local saying goes, “When the scaffolding comes down, we’ll know it’s the end of the world.” Just a few blocks away, 13 stone masons apply techniques passed along for generations to re-create statues and intricate scrollwork (a wonder to watch).

 

 

The Minster’s construction spanned four centuries and was supported in great part by local guilds, whose symbols still last in stained glass windows from the 13th to 16th centuries. Don’t miss the gargoyles including one that spouts water not from his hideous mouth but rather from his naked bottom. If your legs are sturdy and the weather’s good, consider the 330-step climb up the spire for an outstanding view of the Old Town, the Black Forest and the Rhine plain.

 

 

Tradition is important in Freiburg. Farmers and craftspeople still come daily (except Sunday) to sell their wares at the cathedral square. On one side, farmers sell local fruit, vegetables, meats, cheeses, sausages and bread, as well as teas and spices. On the other side, craftspeople sell wooden toys, carvings and candles, many of them from the Black Forest.

 

 

Most of the buyers are not tourists. As they have for centuries, Freiburg’s residents come to the marketplace at least once a week—usually Saturday—to do their shopping, even though it may be less convenient or more expensive than going to a supermarket. They know where the goods came from. They know the farmer or craftsperson. And their families have done so for generations.

 

 

 

Shopping is by no means restricted to the market square. Freiburg is a shopper’s city as well, with values in department stores along the Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse and high-end buys in boutiques and galleries along the Konviktstrasse and Königstrasse. Young designers round out the mainstream stores with a trendy jewelry and clothing scene. Browsers will love the antique shops in the Insel (Island) District and along the Gerberau.