What had started as a Roman military camp became a Roman provincial capital for more than 400 years. By the 15th century, Augsburg was one of Europe’s wealthiest and most important merchant cities. The prosperity led to the construction of elaborate palaces and merchant homes, many still standing and open to the public. The wealth also allowed craftsmen to flourish. During the 17th century, the city had more goldsmiths than bakers.

 

That was quite evident as I climbed the stairs in the 17th-century city hall. Upstairs, I found the Golden Hall, famed for its intricately carved wall and ceiling facades – most coated in gold leaf – and Renaissance murals. Outside, schoolchildren filled the town square.

 

As luck would had it, it was St. Michael’s Day, the one day each year that a statue of St. Michael came alive in the adjacent Perlach Tower, originally a 13th century watchtower. Each hour, shutters flew open, and the hero killed a dragon with repeated strikes from his sword.

 

The dragon successfully slain, I escaped the crowd with a quick detour to the Market Square, open six days a week ( Monday to Saturday) and a delight for the senses. Some tables overflowed with peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, kohlrabi, corn and herbs from local farms. Others were topped with imported fruit, like grapes from Italy and oranges from Israel. Some booths were specialized – including one where a long line formed for wild mushrooms. Flowers filled one corner, baked goods another. The square was bordered by two buildings – one for fish, the other for meat. For $2, I had a snack of dumplings in rich beef broth. For “dessert,” beets – cooked, sliced and sweet as could be.

 

 

continue Celebrities