Würzburg restaurants feature hearty and down-to-earth Franconian specialties like blaue Zipfel, sausages simmered in sweet-and-sour broth; Knäudeli, blood sausages served with bacon and sauerkraut; Gerupfter, camembert cheese blended with onions and spices and served on dark bread; Schnickerli, a sweet-and-sour fricassee of calf stomach-lining; and Meefischli, a deep-fried, finger-sized fish eaten whole. From May to June, most restaurants serve a seasonal delicacy - white asparagus - in as many incarnations as possible.

Of course, all dishes must be accompanied by a fine Franconian wine, available in every restaurant and wine bar. Or, for those who prefer to focus on the wine alone, wine bars abound. The scenic, riverside Haus des Frankenweins (House of Franconian Wines) is one of the few establishments that offer wine tastings for individuals. Operated by the Franconian Viticulture Federation, it offers as many as 100 different regional wines. A favorite for locals is Riemenschneider Weinstuben, hidden away in a narrow alley in the Altstadt.

Although the food at the Bürgerspital - primarily Franconian specialties - is excellent, it's the choice of quality wines that makes the visit, as well as a strong sense of history. The Bürgerspital was established in 1319 as a home for sick and elderly and now covers a huge campus of buildings in the Altstadt. Much of its endowment comes from the nearly 200 acres of vineyards it owns throughout Franconia and 750,000 liters of wine stored in oak barrels in its massive cellars (themselves worth a visit). Dining is in the wine cellar, with its centuries-old vaulted ceilings.

Like the Bürgerspital, the Julius-Spital is a charitable institution endowed by the wine industry. Even the menu declares, "With every bottle, the buyer does a good deed." The Julius-Spital Weinstube is a pleasant, traditional and relaxed setting in a 1699 Baroque building. Service is attentive and cordial.

A typical four-course dinner might start with a fresh salad garnished with turnips and dill, followed by Franconian Mostsuppe, a creamy soup made with wine that's just started to ferment and flecked with cinnamon crisps. Then a pork cutlet, pounded thin and tender, lightly breaded and pan fried, followed by a stunning dessert, Weinapfel: an apple poached in wine, filled with cheese, baked briefly and topped with berries.

Zum Stachel is one of the oldest restaurants in Germany, dating back at least to 1413. The non-descript façade of the entrance doesn't hint at the medieval character that persists inside: leaded windows, dark wood furniture, plank flooring and stucco archways. Vine-draped walls surround an exquisite garden courtyard.

Equally exquisite is the food. Fish is a specialty of the chef, and the grilled fish plate - with a variety of fresh fish - is especially tasty. Meat dishes abound, like the grilled sampler plate with fresh vegetables and mushrooms. Bolder diners may try Schnickerli in a white wine sauce. The courtyard is the perfect setting for wine with a cheese platter or for a typical Franconian dessert, pancakes filled with poached plums and cream.

During asparagus season, Zum Stachel prepares a seemingly endless variety of dishes: asparagus with carpaccio and arugula, with hollandaise sauce, in a ragout with dumplings, with parsleyed potatoes, and so on.

The Ratskeller is charming and historic. The various rooms carry different Rococo and Baroque themes, and all have high, arched ceilings, frescoes and statues. There's also a delightful inner courtyard with fountain - a great place to relax with wine and cheese or to escape the summer heat with a cool beer and a snack. Baked camembert with berries is super, as are the trout with wild rice and the grilled pork with roasted onions.

This article appeared in its original form in Gemuetlichkeit German Travel Newsletter.  www.gemut.com